Philou

Posted on 21/08/2011 by Fine Gueule

Between the Canal Saint Martin and the up and coming rue Bichat, there is a ton of little bistrots to choose from. Which way to turn? I suggest the recent creation of Philippe Damas: Philou. It is a modern bistrot with red wall seats and steel grey walls. Nice décor but nothing overdone. The main point here is Philou’s delicious food… As soon as I was seated I could not help but glance into my neighbour’s plates (naughty habit of mine) and the food looked extraordinarily appetizing. I actually had the same things as the woman sitting next to me as it was so mouthwatering!

So I started with the marinated sardines “façon millefeuille” with thin slices of potatoes and roasted red peppers. Such a fresh starter! I then fell for the magnificent tuna steak served with sautéed chanterelle in a meat juice. I usually very rarely go for the tuna when I eat out (I tend to find it a tad boring and I admit on having flashes of an ecological mind), but this time I just could not resist it. For dessert I can still taste the lovely scent of my warm serving of stewed apricots with a hint of rosemary.

All in all, it really was a great meal and the service was extremely friendly and helpful! I highly recommend Philou!.

Philou, 12 avenue Richerand, 75010 Paris. Métro Goncourt. Tél : 01 42 39 04 73. Dinner about 30 euros / pers.

 

 

                                                                                                                                                   

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Boco

Posted on 22/07/2011 by Fine Gueule

 

Photo by Marie Letang

The new place in town, Boco, has been very much talked about lately… The journalist and food critic Vincent Ferniot and his brother came up with this exciting (and ambitious) concept to sell high gastronomy as fast food. Let me explain:  the recipes come from several star Chefs like Anne-Sophie Pic or Christophe Michalak and the dishes are presented in cute glass jars, easy to take away, heat and of course recycle! It is all quite fun, and so is the buzzer that happily vibrates on your tray when your food is warm. For 20 euros, I had a tomato stuffed with goat cheese and olive oil as a starter (Gilles Goujon’s recipe), a chicken blanquette as a main and a lovely cheesecake for dessert (inspired by Mr Michalak). The food is quite nice for a quick lunch and it is a convenient location but the buzz about the place went a bit overboard if you ask me…

Boco, 3 rue Danielle Casanova, 75001 Paris. Tel. : 01 42 61 17 67. Web : www.bocobio.com 

 

 

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Les 36 Corneil

Posted on 12/07/2011 by Fine Gueule

This small and friendly bar à vin, serves lovely tapas called « canailles ». It’s nice and relaxed at lunch time and a bit more festive and upbeat in the evening (with lovely little candles scattered around). For 20 euros, I had five small savoury dishes, amongst which a caponata with fresh goat cheese and a tasty lamb pasty with chanterelle mushrooms, followed by an orange blossom flavoured panacotta. Give it a try if you are in the neighborhood and looking for a simple place with a good atmosphere.

Les 36 Corneil, 36 rue de Rochechouart, 75009 Paris. Tel. : 01 48 78 42 55. Métros: Cadet / Anvers / Poissonière

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Cueva del Diablo

Posted on 01/07/2011 by Fine Gueule

It is the second time that I meet up with my friends at this Argentinian restaurant in the 5th arrondissement. If its central location is a bonus for everyone, this place has arguments to have you come back…

The decor is modern and quite simple, with wooden walls and deep red comfy chairs. Best of all, the tables are large and well spaced out – a real treat in Paris. The service is lovely and executed by a bunch of young guys, who seem to be the managers, and therefore know much about what is on offer… Nice touch.

At the Cueva del Diablo, you’ll find all sorts of South American specialties and a large choice of wine from that part of the world. For the sake of conviviality (and to get to try more stuff) we shared a few starters: meat empanadas (small pasties filled with minced beef, boiled egg and raisins), grilled chorizos (grilled spicy little sausages) and a queso a la parrilla (lovely chunck of grilled provolone cheese in olive oil). Everyone was satisfied: when the produce is good, the simpler dishes can be very tasty. I have a particular soft spot for the grilled provolone. It’s hard to beat good grilled cheese…

Then came the MEAT. What beautiful, generous and mouth watering steaks! They are served on a wooden plancha and a ferocious knife is provided for the occasion. The prime cut, the bife de lomo, is as tender as butter. The meat is grilled on the outside and perfectly cooked on the inside. One small criticism: it could have arrived a bit warmer (as well as the sides actually) and a bit saltier. Talking about sides, we had the corn fritters (so comforting), the marinated aubergines (okay but nothing to write home about) and a corn on the cob (not recommended if you are on a date).

After that, our strength and appetite did not fail us, and we tried the dulce de leche (wonderful smooth toffee) flan and the dulce de leche banana (variation on the theme). A lovely meal that was!

Cueva del Diablo, 13 rue du Cardinal Lemoine, 75005 Paris. Tel : 01 43 26 37 01. Web: http://www.cuevadeldiablo.com

 

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Braisenville

Posted on 07/06/2011 by Fine Gueule

With its volcanic décor – bright orange lamps and ash-like grey brick walls – and its saucy name (a fun little play on words), Braisenville is the new cool restaurant rue Condorcet!

There, you can enjoy really tasty, sophisticated tapas-style small dishes, cooked in a special charcoal burning oven imported from Spain. Some of them still live in my memory, like the monkfish with fennel and watercress jus, the braised veal with turnips and pineapple or the plate of al dente vegetables in a basil coulis.

If you add a very friendly service and really reasonable prices considering the quality of the produce used, you’ve got all the ingredients for a great meal out! 36, rue Condorcet, Paris (IXe), 09-50-91-21-74

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Nanashi

Posted on 11/05/2011 by Fine Gueule

 I finally went to Nanashi – the new « place to go » on rue de Paradis – with some friends.  I must say, I was a bit disappointed.

The décor is a bit edgy: a big loft-style room, vintage furniture and boxes of veg on sale in a corner. It felt a bit like being in a relaxed Lower East Side café in New York. That evening, the weather was lovely, the big French windows were fully open, which added to the breezy feel of the place, along with the fact that the tables are well spaced out (a rare treat in Paris!).

The service was friendly, relaxed and young. It matched the place well.

However, the food itself was nothing to write home about. I was expecting to find a good cross between fresh vegetarian dishes – so à la mode at the moment – and delicate Japanese favourites, but that did not happen, and the quality was just okay. The menu, which is written on a big board on the wall, is quite limited. There’s a choice of Bento boxes (their “trademark”) with two salads, rice or cereals, and a piece of swordfish or a beef tataki (that evening’s selection), a bun-like pizza or a tofu dish. No need to think for too long, the possibilities being so limited…

The Bento boxes arrived, leading to our second (small) disappointment. We all know that bikini season is just around the corner, but that was taking it too far: we were still in need of a decent size meal!  As for the quality, it was fine, nothing more, nothing less. I recognize that for 13 euros, you can’t expect the moon, but a small effort could have gone a long way here… For dessert, I had the cheesecake (my all time favourite), which wasn’t bad at all.

My advice: go for a relaxing lunch with a friend, but not really a place for dinner.

Nanashi, 31 rue de Paradis, 75010 Paris. Tel. : 01 40 22 05 55

 

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La tête dans les olives

Posted on 03/05/2011 by Fine Gueule

I recently took my husband to La Tête dans les Olives as a surprise. I was intrigued by the place and had wanted a table for a while. But boy, was it hard work getting a table. For starters, there is only ONE table… Reservations have to be made via email and well (very well) in advance. Anyhow, I was motivated so I went through the whole palava.

Our dinner was a very different experience, both as regards the food point of view and on a human level. The place is tiny, about 10 square meters (if you don’t do square meters, let’s say its about the size of a big American closet, that will give you a rough idea). So it is cozy and full of Italian (Sicilian to be precise) food. During the day, la Tête dans les Olives is a delicatessen selling olive oils, olives and lots of other goodies that Cédric Casanova, the owner, brings back from his many trips to Sicily. At night, he serves a selection of antipasti and other delicacies on the little wooden table that looks like it came straight out of your grandfather’s garden. It’s all a bit messy and strange, but if you are fore- warned and know (roughly) what to expect, you can enjoy an experience which is like no other I have had in Paris yet.

Cedric Casanova has quite an original background: he comes from the world of the Circus and previously worked for the Cirque du Soleil. He travelled the world with his previous job and made his final stop between Paris and Sicily, the two places he originates from. His little table d’hôte opened three years ago and rapidly gained a good reputation in the press and foodie circles.

Don’t forget to bring your own wine as he does not sell any. We made the mistake of forgetting that one, but fortunately, the nice guy that runs the Chilean restaurant next door sold us two bottles of really good red. So we sat at the small table (which is allegedly able to accommodate up to six people?!) and Cedric served us a selection of his olive oils (his babies), followed by an “olive tasting”, and then he proceeded to cook a dinner for us on a little burner, right there in this tiny space. Homemade tapenade, a delicious paste of dried aubergines (his invention!), segments of oranges with fresh anchovies and fennel seeds, dried tuna sprinkled with fresh mint: all very simple and tasty. The antipasti were followed by a pasta dish (very well cooked) with a pesto of ewe’s-milk pecorino, almonds and fresh mint. Once again, it was a very pleasant and original dish. For dessert, Cedric prepared a fresh apple carpaccio, sprayed with rum, sprinkled with fennel seeds and served with small almond cakes. It was light and refreshing after a high-in-carbs diner!

It is a good place for chilling and eating, away from the crowds but not great if you are looking for a romantic evening and private conversation as the Chef is basically standing by your table and finally taking a real part in the whole thing. We got along well with Cédric and had really good conversations, so it worked out well for us, but it’s better to know what to expect.

La tête dans les Olives, 30 euros per person (maximum of six people in one group), 2 rue Sainte-Marthe, 75010 Paris. www.latetedanslesolives.com

 

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Bob’s Kitchen: an American man in Paris

Posted on 18/04/2011 by Fine Gueule

Continuing my hip-vegetarian-lunch-spot theme, I recently discovered Bob’s Kitchen – and thoroughly enjoyed it. It is a small white room, with wooden communal tables and (hardish) stools. The cutlery and kitchen rolls are already on the table, so you just help yourself.

This place tries to keep it real. Big boxes of fresh fruits and vegetables are piled up near the counter and the atmosphere is relaxed, in a way that only Americans seem to manage. The waitresses were lovely, sincerely interested in what they were doing and able to switch easily from French to English. What a pleasure to find such a friendly American welcome in Paris!

The menu changes daily, according to the seasons and what the market has to offer: fresh fruit juices (mango, carrots…), sandwiches, stews and futomaki.

That Friday, we shared the futomaki as a starter (mango, avocado, radish and brown rice) which could easily be a main course considering its size. It was extremely fresh and tasty with a real Japanese touch…

Then I had the stew of the day: a mixture of cold and warm flavors with a subtle Indian aroma. The bowl was lined with fresh spinach leaves, covered with spiced lentils, brown rice, grilled vegetables (carrots, courgettes/zucchini and parsnips) and cucumbers in yogurt. Each mouthful was a new discovery of tastes and textures!

A bite of the pesto-tomato-avocado-roquette bagel ordered by my friend confirmed that Bob really knows what he is doing, and that, with a bit of savoir-faire, a vegetarian meal can be as satisfying as a “regular” meal…

Desserts (oatmeal and dark chocolate cookies and yogurt with berries and granola) completed this wholesome meal, which still lives in my memory…

Prices : futomaki (6,50), stew (8,50), bagel (6,50), all very reasonable, considering the quality! Bob’s Kitchen, 74 rue des Gravilliers, 75003 Paris. Tél. : 09 52 55 11 66

 

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The Sévéro: my favourite steakhouse in Paris!

Posted on 10/03/2011 by Fine Gueule

It had been a while since my last visit to the Sévéro but I was not disappointed when I went back last week. This restaurant serves outstanding meat. In my opinion, maybe the best you can find in Paris…

The place is very popular so booking ahead is a must. The boss, William Bernet used to be a butcher and definitely knows his business.

The décor is simple: an open kitchen, wooden tables and a big blackboard with the huge choice of (delicious) wines. Indeed, the Sévéro is also a bar à vin! The atmosphere is warm, bustling and it smells good of grilled meat. However, you should be warned: this is not the place for a romantic meal. The dining room is tight and the tables are very close to each other, so better go to focus on the food and have light conversations.

Considering the quality of the food, the prices are very decent: starters don’t go higher than 10 euros and the main courses range from 15 to 40 euros.

We started with the famous black pudding by Christian Parra, which is always on the menu and is one of the hits. It is served warm, and looks a bit like a galette, caramelized on the outside and melt-in-your-mouth in the inside. It comes with bits of cooked apples and a very fresh arugula salad. It’s divine. We also tried the warm radicchio salad, sprinkled with parmesan cheese: lovely, with a hint of bitterness.

Then we chose from the wide range of beef cuts on the menu (although beef is not the only meat on offer, it is clearly the one the Sévéro specializes in):  sirloins, rib steaks, rump steaks, prime ribs… You might like to know that William Bernet (which works with the well renowned butcher Desnoyers) buys the whole animals (or more precisely the “aloyeau”) which he then ages on the bone himself.

The servings are very generous, the meat is extremely tender, tasty and perfectly cooked. Again, I really think it is the best meat I have had in Paris. The choice of sides is limited (very good sign!): French fries or green beans. Once again, the quality is unbelievable: the French fries are homemade, quite large, golden and lovely. As to the beans, they are fresh from the garden (so to speak) and just rightly buttered.

For me, this restaurant clearly stands out. The owner is passionate about his food and is not looking for compromise. The produce is of exceptional quality, prepared simply and with expertise. Le Sévéro, 8 rue des Plantes, 75014 Paris. Tél. : 01 40 44 73 09.

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Georgette

Posted on 14/02/2011 by Fine Gueule

I have recently found a bistrot worth writing home about! A lunch with a friend gave me the opportunity to discover Georgette, and it is the best discovery I have made in weeks. I must say I was impressed.

The setting is quite Parisian and retro, and the decoration is very sixties, with bright formica tables. There is a lively and friendly atmosphere to the place.

The menu has what I would call a “traditional French family cuisine” on offer. The seasonal produce, which are carefully selected, are extremely fresh and of prime quality. It feels like good old times, when food had the real taste of nature. Such quality ingredients are getting rare these days…

My seam bream Pot-au-feu was just perfect: fresh fish and freshly picked (from two gardens which are quoted in the menu), melt in your mouth vegetables. My friend ordered the roast chicken with meadowsweet. It was golden, plump and juicy and above all, it really tasted like a real farm chicken. The desserts were also splendid. The chocolate cake was far better than the ubiquitous fondant on offer in tons of places, and the financier with its dry fig sorbet was lovely and moist. Main courses were around 15 Euros and desserts were no higher than 10 Euros.

I am already looking forward to going back! Georgette, 29 rue Saint-Georges, 75009 Paris. Tél.: 01 42 80 39 13.

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