Not far from rue des Martyrs, in the 9th arrondissement of Paris, there are two little Japanese gems – in two very different styles – that I highly recommend.
Momoka is a small restaurant which only has about six tables. The décor is young, simple and cosy: there is a lovely relaxing feel about the place. Masayo cooks everything in a tiny open-plan Ikea kitchen – very homy – and she really does make wonders. There is no à la carte menu to choose from. The only choice is between the three complete sample menus from €29 to €59 depending on the size of your appetite. I tend to recommend the middle one for €39: perfect in terms of quantity.
Once you’ve chosen which one to go for, you can relax, sip your glass of wine –or sake for those who enjoy it – while waiting for the waves of dishes, each prettier and tastier than the last. Cast away all images of maki, sushi or yakitori. It has nothing to do with the formatted food that you can find in the multitude of “Japanese” places that have popped up like mushrooms all over the city. Here every dish is cooked with care and love, with attention to detail and a sense of aesthetics. They usually start with a generous plate of Japanese salads: a delight and a speciality of Momoka. Potatoes with egg, confit aubergine in a sesame sauce, grilled lotus, roasted pumpkin, cucumbers in vinegar and all sorts of other marinated vegetables which make an appetising plate for the table to share. Conviviality is key: dishes are put at the centre of the table and guests help themselves. Then come the finely cut raw and/or marinated fish: mackerel, tuna, salmon or sea bream, it all depends on the season and what the market has to offer. After that, there are usually one or two small hot dishes: sea bass filets in a light ginger broth, caramelized beef, or other delights. No need to worry for those of you who have a strong appetite, the meal is copious (about six dishes in total) so that the rice is usually an unnecessary option. Desert is not included but if you decide to try the green tea tiramisu, you are not likely to regret it…
What’s particularly interesting with Momoka: you can go back several times, order the same sample menu and have a different meal each time. Masayo is one to surprise you constantly with her magical touch and she strives in the challenge to mix harmoniously delicacy and conviviality. Momoka is a great little spot for those of you who enjoy untypical Japanese cuisine. Booking is a must.
Momoka, 5, r. Jean-Baptiste-Pigalle, 75009 PARIS. Tel : 01 40 16 19 09
And in my next post, I’ll tell you about my other personal favourite Japanese place in the same neighbourhood…
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